Nestled in the heart of Bordeaux, Place Fernand-Lafargue offers a delightful paradox: a square that hums with modern vitality while deeply entrenched in a rich and diverse history. From its medieval marketplace origins to its lively ambiance today, this square is a must-visit for anyone looking to deeply immerse themselves in the Bordeaux experience.

From Medieval French Marketplace to Modern Bordeaux Marvel

Originally documented as “Lou Mercat” in the 13th century, Place Fernand-Lafargue (or its prior name, Place du Vieux Marché) has always been a hub of activity. Its significance during the Middle Ages was unparalleled, being a bustling marketplace where merchants, students, and even St James’ Way pilgrims intersected.

This square bears witness to Bordeaux’s historical evolution, from its thriving market trades, horrifying public punishments, and as the last city sight for pilgrims heading through the Porte Saint-Éloi AKA La Grosse Cloche. One fascinating resident of note was Ramon Eyquem, a fish trader, whose affluence eventually aided the rise of his great-grandson, the emblematic philosopher Montesquieu.

The square was also located by the river Peugue, which is now beneath Cours d’Alsace Lorraine. Interestingly, this river was used by butchers and tanners for waste disposal. Yet, over time, and especially during parts of the 20th century, this once-vibrant square became a forgotten parking lot. However, transformations between 2004 and 2008 revitalized it, making it a hotspot filled with trendy nightclubs and bars, though not without its controversies.

A Blend of Classic Bordeaux Relaxation and Modern Revelry

Today, Place Fernand-Lafargue is celebrated for its warmth and vivacity. With its strategic location – just 100 meters from the bustling Rue Sainte-Catherine and in close proximity to Place Pey-Berland and Porte Cailhau – this square is easily accessible. Thanks to the nearby tram line A, and the Cours Victor-Hugo’s bus line 16, getting here is a breeze for tourists and locals alike.

Bordeaux residents cherish the square for its ambiance, often described as both joyful and relaxing. Daytimes see children at play, café terraces brimming with conversation, and the occasional ice-cream vendor enticing those looking for a treat. As night falls, street musicians fill the air with melodies, and establishments like l’Apollo, le Moshi-Moshi, and le Santosha come alive.

LOCAL TIP: For the first-time visitor, a morning walk is highly recommended to soak in the tranquility before diving into the square’s busier hours. By afternoon, indulge in Bordeaux’s café culture. As evening approaches, be prepared for a livelier setting. If nightlife isn’t your scene, fret not; Place Fernand-Lafargue’s proximity to shopping streets and other historical sites makes it a perfect resting point.

The statue of Jean Fernand-Lafargue, a tribute to the novelist and poet born in Bordeaux in 1856, located in the Jardin Public, is a sightseeing must. If your interest leans historical, a detour to the nearby Porte Saint-Éloi (La Grosse Cloche) or the Porte de Bourgogne will be worth your time.

Place Fernand-Lafargue epitomizes Bordeaux’s spirit. It’s a place where the past and present coalesce, offering both a lesson in history and a testament to Bordeaux’s adaptive vibrancy. So, next time you find yourself in Bordeaux, make a point to stroll through this square, absorbing its stories and maybe even creating a few of your own.

NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Porte de Bourgogne
Pont de pierre
Rue Sainte-Catherine

NEARBY RECOMMENDATIONS
Frida
Au Nouveau Monde
Santosha
Breakfast Club