Bordeaux is the gem of South West France – a city that’s famed for its wine culture, outstanding classic-style architecture, and up-and-coming youthful vibe. However, if you’re keen to really kick back and relax away from the bustling city center, here’s a rundown of the top 5 green spaces and parks around town. Grab a picnic and a good book, and follow Le Map!
The Jardin Public – an English country garden in the heart of Bordeaux
Created in 1746 and covering 11 hectares, the Jardin Public is a unique space that blends 18th century architecture, towering trees gathered from around the globe, and the magnificent ‘Orangerie’ terrace. Steeped in history, this beautiful landscaped city-center oasis is surrounded by classic Bordeaux ‘mansions’, and features a botanical garden, sculptures, scenic swan lake, decorative footbridges, children’s play area (with an antique carousel), dog zone, and the famous Guignol Guérin puppet theatre.
The jardin is in the illustrious category of ‘Outstanding Gardens of France’ and houses the Bordeaux Museum of Natural History, set to open in 2019.
With its winding shaded paths, it’s the perfect spot to escape the city heat and chill out on a bench or with a picnic on the grass. It’s also well-suited for cycling or blading – don’t be surprised if you see yoga, tai-chi classes or the odd juggler.
Where is it?
The Jardin Public is easily accessible on foot from Quinconces. You can alternatively take tram C to Jardin Public or buses 4, 5N, 6, 15 and 29.
There are also VCub bike depots on the cours de Verdun, rue Fondaudège and rue David Johnston.
It’s free and open every day in summer from 7am to 8pm (check website for winter hours).
Le Map local tips
The park has several entrance gates giving you quick access to rue Fondaudège/St Seurin/Palais Gallien, Chartrons and Quinconces – with a range of nearby shops to grab picnic supplies or drinks.
The Orangerie has a superb selection of cakes and ice creams you can take away. The café terrace has tables and chairs with parasols (in hot demand) and recliner sun chairs. They accept all major credit cards.
There’s a library with a superb kid’s section – and the kids play area is one of the best in town.
The side of the park bordering the cours de Verdun often has photo exhibitions.
There are free public toilets next to the puppet theatre and customer ones in the Orangerie.
NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Palais Gallien
NEARBY RECOMMENDATIONS
Nulle Part Ailleurs
The Parc Bordelais – a Bordeaux institution
The largest green space in central Bordeaux, the Paris-inspired Parc Bordelais is a 28 hectare 19th century park with around 3000 trees, many more than a hundred years old. Officially labelled as an ‘Ecological Green Space’ and ‘Outstanding Garden’, it has a host of wide alleys that lead through a protected oak forest, English-style river and diverse range of flora and fauna.
It’s perfect for joggers, bladers and cyclists, and has ample space to escape the crowds for a picnic or some quiet time.
It’s also ideal for kids, with a ‘farm zone’ full of local breeds of animals (including peacocks), swan and duck lakes, wild rabbits, red squirrels, a toy train, electric car track, 3 play areas, a puppet theatre and a picturesque park café.
Where is it?
The Parc Bordelais is accessible by bus 2, 3+ and 5 at the Parc Bordelais stop.
There’s a VCub bike depot by the main gate.
Entrances to the park are on avenue du Charles de Gaulle, avenue d’Eysines, avenue Carnot, rue du parc, rue Godard; and there’s free parking in all the surrounding streets (rue du Bocage is the most convenient).
It’s free and open every day from 7am to 8pm in summer (check website for winter hours or call for info in French – 05 56 42 14 55).
Le Map local tips
Make sure you don’t miss the breathtaking 19th century decorative park gates at the top of avenue Carnot.
The nearest mini-market for picnic supplies is on avenue du Charles de Gaulle and is open on Sundays.
The café has normal tables and chairs and recliner chairs. They accept all major credit cards.
The kids toy train is a couple of Euros as are the electric cars – bring spare change!
There is a star-shaped forest behind the park café that’s well worth a visit.
There are free public toilets at the main entrance (avenue Carnot), rue Godard side, the children’s play area at the Charles de Gaulle end and in the park café.
NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Bernard Magrez Cultural Institute
Quai Louis XVIII – people watching by the river
There’s no better place to soak in the majestic Bordeaux ‘port de la lune’ atmosphere than the quais. Beating heart of the city for centuries, the river zone has had a massive face-lift over the last 20 years – it’s now a haven for joggers, cyclists, long-boarders and anyone looking for open green space with a priceless view!
From the Miroir d’eau to the CAPC, Quai Louis XVIII has flower gardens and trees galore, and is perfect for a picnic, kicking back and people watching, or checking out one of the numerous events held there year round.
There are also a range of pubs, restaurants and shops within 5 minutes walk, so you have no chance of going thirsty…
Where is it?
The green space by the quais is easily accessible on foot from Quinconces or via the Quinconces Fleuve tram stop.
There is a VCub bike depot on the CAPC side of Quinconces.
Le Map local tips
The BatCub runs from near the Miroir d’eau and you can use it with regular tram tickets – it gets you straight to the right back, quai des marques or the Musée du Vin et du Négoce.
The quais are a stone’s throw from several top Bordeaux monuments, including Quinconces, Palais de la Bourse and the outstanding Sunday market on Quai des Chartrons.
Keep an eye on the Bordeaux.fr website to get a heads up on the latest events.
NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Place des Quinconces
NEARBY RECOMMENDATIONS
Le Bar à Vin
Right bank of the Garonne River
Jardin Botanique – a dynamo of eco-friendly innovation
Open to the public in 2003, the Jardin Botanique is an ecological oasis in the heart of Bastide. Spread over 12,000m2, this aesthetic paradise is crafted around a range of natural environments and landscapes – perfect for a relaxing afternoon away from the crowds.
The groundbreaking project is a first in France and torch bearer for local conservation and ecology. The garden’s network of paths weave around a one-hectare lake and contain a huge range of species. There are six main areas based on the diverse nature of the local region – from the Aquitaine basin (with dune, limestone cliff, wet meadow, lawn, and moors) to local crops, pioneer plants and climbing vines, an aquatic garden and the urban community garden – a place to learn about the local environment, or simply take a stroll.
The botanical garden works closely with local schools and students from the Bordeaux College of Architecture and Landscape. It also runs a visits for the public as well as educational courses, scientific botanical exchanges and advice & expertise in all areas of plant science.
There are exhibition rooms as well, with permanent exhibits on the garden’s objectives, the development and adaptation of plant species and Bordeaux’s rich botanical history.
The garden’s Caillou restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a quiet coffee – it’s also a hub of the Bordeaux jazz world, with concerts throughout the year.
Where is it?
The Jardin Botanique (at Esplanade Linné) can be accessed via the nearby tram stop of the same name (tram A), by bike with a VCub depot by the main entrance, or simply on foot by crossing Pont de Pierre and walking up avenue Thiers.
There are pedestrian entrances at quai de Queyries, allée Jean Giono, and allée Serr.
The BatCub will also take you up there from the Musée du Vin/Quai des Marques.
Le Map local tips
The Jardin is open from 8am to 8pm in summer and 8-6pm in winter.
Access to gardens is free and there are guided tours every Sunday at 4pm (€4 per person).
The exhibition rooms are €4 for adults and free for under 18s – also free if you have the museum passport. The first Sunday of the month (outside July/August) is free for everyone.
Check out the blistering array of jazz and blues concerts on the Caillou website.
NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Darwin
NEARBY RECOMMENDATIONS
La Guinguette Chez Alriq
La Petite Gironde
Quai des Queyries – natural serenity and sublime views
Hugely popular with the locals, the quai des Queyries (Parc aux Angéliques) is one of Bordeaux’s best kept secrets! Within easy reach of Pont de Pierre, this large green space is ideal for a quiet picnic with first class views of the Bordeaux esplanade on the other side of the river.
There are regular concerts throughout the summer and you are in the perfect spot to head to the Guinguette chez Alriq, Chantiers de la Garonne beach cafe or Darwin eco-center.
There is also a superb cycle track that covers the entire right back joining Pont de Pierre with Pont Chaban Delmas – soon to be linked all the way to Vieux Lormont via the rapidly-evolving quai de Brazza.
The entire right bank is currently being developed so watch this space. Built on reclaimed land from the old port, the goal is to create a large landscaped park along the entire right bank, complete with the reintroduction of 45,000 native plant species, including ash trees, maples, cherry trees and hornbeams. They are also planting extensive sustainable flower meadows and creating a public-friendly zone with reduced-mobility access that is entirely flood-proof!
Where is it?
The quai des Queyries is accessible on foot via Pont de Pierre (tram A, Stalingrad), bike, BatCub and there is free parking at the Chantier de la Garonne.
They are planning additional BatCub stops as the area develops in the near future.
Le Map local tips
The right bank is the relaxed side of the river and is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle. There’s a mini-market in Stalingrad to pick up picnic supplies…
Don’t miss the La Petite Gironde restaurant – make sure you call ahead for a terrace table with 5 star views of Bordeaux.
The Darwin eco-system is well worth a visit, as is the Guinguette chez Alriq with its regular concerts and laid back vibe and the Chantiers de la Garonne beach café.
Darwin has its own organic supermarket with a range of local products.
The Chantiers de la Garonne has its own brewery, serves local seafood, has a pétanque alley and puts on regular DJ nights during summer months.
Parc aux Angéliques has a statue of Toussaint Louverture (the first coloured governor of the French colony of Haiti) in commemoration of Bordeaux’s slave trade.
NEARBY SIGHTSEEING
Darwin
NEARBY RECOMMENDATIONS
La Guinguette Chez Alriq
La Petite Gironde
Disclaimer – under the Règlement général des parcs et jardins, voté par le conseil municipal le 16 juillet 2008 – cyclists are allowed to cross park spaces but pedestrians are given priority; children under 10 must be accompanied at all times; picnics are only possible on authorised lawns and benches, provided that the waste is removed by the participants and the tranquillity of the park is preserved – alcoholic beverages are officially prohibited unless consumed on licensed premises. Dogs are also prohibited in all playgrounds and banned completely in some parks – see specific park websites for details.
